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12 November 2008

AFRICA IS BIG!

I know it's been a while since I've posted... things have been going really well, but they've also been really busy lately (as if that were something new ;). I'm in Zambia at the moment for user research. It's great because I have some interesting new pictures to post, but not-so-great because I only have access to very slow internet about once every three days while I'm here. D'oh! We'll see how many pictures I can get uploaded once I get to a connection.


In any case, I'm here to talk with, observe, take pictures of, learn from and understand small farmers in Zambia. I'm staying in a hotel about 12km outside of the capital, Lusaka. From here it's another 20km or so out to the field sites I visited yesterday. I talked to a couple of farmers, but not many (hope to remedy that today). IDE has a manual well-drilling team that's training out near there though, so I got to see them in action. A bit more explanation...


There are pretty much two main options for accessing water that's more than a few feet underground: a hand-dug well or a drilled well. A hand-dug well is just that... dug by hand by someone who is down the hole with a pick, a shovel, or some other hand tool. This method has a couple of limitations, but is most hindered by the fact that the digger is at the bottom of the hole. This means that as soon as he reaches the groundwater level, he can only dig about one meter deeper, since digging while holding one's breath under water isn't very practical.


Why is that an issue? Well, I just realized how long this explanation could turn out to be. Maybe it'd be worth it to make some drawings...


Anyway, the 'short' version: different layers of earth have different properties, and allow water to flow through them at different rates. A sand layer, for example, allows water to flow through it pretty quickly. Clay, however, does not. What that means is that, if there is clay at the level of groundwater in a hand-dug well, it will most likely be possible for a user to pump out all of the water in the bottom of the well. Then he will have to wait until the well recharges by filling up with the water that is seeping through the clay walls of the well. If the well hits a sandy layer though, then water flows quickly through that layer, and can often recharge the well just as fast as a user is able to pull water out of the well. This way the well never 'goes dry'.


Anyway...back to well types. The other sort is a drilled well, where the drillers are above ground, and send a long pipe with a bit on the end of it down the hole. They then manipulate that pipe and bit to drill the hole (this involves the bit chewing up whatever rock or sediment it comes in contact with on its way down, but just as importantly pulling that material up and out of the hole). The major advantage here is that you can drill down well below the level of groundwater until you find one of those sandy layers that allows lots of water to pass through it.


That sounds great, right? Well, there's an issue in that it's really expensive to drill a well. For deep or large-diameter wells, a diesel-powered rilling rig is required. For reference, the hole we want to have drilled for our pump testing is probably going to cost about US$5000. Small farmers can't afford that, so we're working with some partners who have experience in manual well-drilling. Here there is no engine involved; we're taking advantage of the very cheap labor that's so abundant in the developing world to keep the cost of drilling a (smaller and shallower, but still functional) well to less than US$200. So we're helping to train a team here in Zambia, and are hoping to get something similar started in Ethiopia soon.


That ends our technology lesson for today, class. More deep thoughts about the developing world coming soon. :-)


Since I've been such a slacker lately in posting updates, here's a quick rundown of what I've been doing for the past few weeks (if I manage to get them uploaded!):


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22 October 2008

WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN ETHIOPIA??

I've gotten this question a few times, so thought I would post about my work at IDE just a bit. This is the quick version. Go see the "story" (coming soon) for a bit more background information.


Here's the deal... this is a poor farmer:


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There are lots of them in Ethiopia. The weather here limits their ability to grow crops. It is very rainy during the summer (July-September), but then very dry for the rest of the year. That means, if you don't have a way to get water for your crops during the dry season, you are very limited in what you can grow to feed your family or to sell in the market.


These are treadle pumps:


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To pump water with it, the farmer "steps" up and down on the two foot treadles, like a stair-climber, and it pumps water from a well to a field. Using a pump can help farmers grow valuable fruits and vegetables during the dry season, when they can fetch a higher price at the market. This helps them earn more money to buy the things they need... additional food, clothes, school fees for their children, etc.


But there's a problem: the pumps are heavy, difficult to operate, have to be imported (and a very expensive duty has to be paid on them), or simply don't work very well. That's where I come in.


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My job here is to develop the treadle pump so that it works well, is affordable, and satisfies the farmers' needs. That's not an easy task... IDE chose to base its Technology Design & Development group in Ethiopia specifically because they knew it would be a challenge to make water technologies successful here. We're making progress, though. I'm starting with a "quick fix" adjustment of the pumps that our workshop partner (AMIO) already makes. They don't work very well, so the goal is to improve quality and function as quickly as possible while they build the pumps. Here's my current plan:


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That's the first part, which I'm working on now. Eventually I will go back and run a full development process on the treadle pump, starting with extensive user observations and interviews. That's when I'll be able to use some of the bigger ideas that require a full redesign of the treadle pump.


And that's it! Exciting, huh? :-)


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12 October 2008

HASHING AND WANDERING

This was my dad's first weekend in Addis, so of course I had to take him hashing. :) Today, we wandered around one of the older parts of the city a bit, and took a tour of one of the largest Orthodox churches in town. Oh, and I've had a request for more pictures of our house, so I've posted a few of those as well.


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Some random Addis photos from our walk today...


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And back to the house. It would be considered a really nice place to live just about anywhere. That it is in the middle of a city with so many poor residents certainly gives me pause. I think often about how a foreigner, or firenge (particularly a westerner) should live in the developing world. Now that I'm earning a western-level salary (as compared to last year in Kathmandu), I can afford to live in a nice home, buy imported food, and essentially make living here feel as close to living in the U.S. or Germany as possible. Is that really my goal? How much should a foreigner try to live like the average local? The majority of local residents obviously survive with what they have...perhaps with a higher mortality rate or worse health, certainly with more hardship and fewer comforts, but they survive. Is there something about my background that entitles me to the perks I'm able to afford?


That's what it comes down to, I think: entitlement. No, I don't know of any fundamental reason why I'm entitled to have more than the Ethiopian family that lives in a one-room mud house with a dirt floor that I pass on my walk to work. At the same time, I question what my living in those conditions would do to help either of our situations. This is a huge topic, so I'll stop there for now. Please e-mail me if you have thoughts or comments.


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8 October 2008

HOME SWEET HOME

I've gotten a couple of questions about where I'm living, so thought I would share a few pictures. It is a beautiful house, built by a woman from northern California who wanted somewhere that felt like home. It's quite a bit nicer than what I would arrange for myself, but for now I'll take it. :)


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Oh, and did I mention that we have a guest room?


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7 October 2008

DAD'S HERE!

My dad arrived in Addis on Sunday evening. He signed up to work on a software development project for a branch of the Ethiopian government, and will be here for about a year. It's great to have him here!


Very quickly (I've been really busy lately, but hope to do more updating soon)... I don't have a motorcycle yet, but I have figured out where I'm going to live. My dad is sharing a house in Addis with another American software developer, and there is enough space for me to live there as well. So I get to live with my dad again! It's been over 10 years since I've lived within 1000 miles of him, so this should be fun. :-)


More soon!


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28 September 2008

MESKAL

Yesterday (Saturday) was the festival of Meskal to celebrate the finding of the True Cross. It's a big day in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church's annual calendar, and is celebrated most commonly by lighting bonfires, singing and dancing. The big festival is held in Meskal Square, right in the center of Addis Ababa, so I of course had to go and check it out.


Evan, an intern working with IDE for a few months, his wife Holly and I took a minibus part of the way to the square, and then walked the last km or so (the roads were closed to cars). On the way, we came across a church choir jamming in the middle of the street:


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We had to stand in line to get patted down before we could enter the square. Once past the barriers, we saw about 15 different choirs dressed in very colorful robes filling the main square. Spectators were directed into a tiered set of stands built into one long side of the square, and the important folks were on a large balcony at the opposite side of the square.


Voices were speaking and singing in Amharic (the official language of Ethiopia, and one of over 80 languages in the country) over a loudspeaker. As near as I can tell, some were hymns, and there were some scripture readings as well. In any case, the music wasn't as engaging as the chanting choir we had passed on the way in. Eventually, things got more interesting for those of us who can't understand Amharic... everyone got candles when they walked in, and as daylight was fading, the flame was passed down the rows from person to person.


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After the candle-lighting came the big flames: first fireworks, then a bonfire. The fireworks show was small but fun, and the bonfire used very green wood for fuel so it was very smokey, but we got some nice views of both. When it was all over, we walked back towards the hotel and home. One of the church choirs was going our way, so we walked along to their singing and drumming for half the way home.


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I haven't heard any official attendance numbers, but there must have been tens of thousands of people in the square, or celebrating in the streets just off the square because they showed up too late to get in.



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27 September 2008

DEMO SITE

IDE currently has two field sites in Ethiopia. The one southwest of Addis is in a town called Ziway, and we have a full field office there, out of which IDE employees conduct farmer training, marketing and value chain development activities. That's where I spent three days the week before last...it's about a 3-hour drive from the office in Addis.


Our other field site is so far "just" a demonstration site. We're planning on expanding the work there soon. It's only an hour's drive from Addis (to the east), so it's a better place for the technical development team to take prototypes for testing. I got out there for the first time on Friday, so thought I'd share some pictures.


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The technical team has a planning meeting this week, so I'll write more later about what I'm actually going to be doing while I'm here in Ethiopia. Suffice it to say for now that I'm really excited about the work, and about the possibility to have some impact on peoples' lives here.


Last, but not least, ich wollte schöne Grüße an die Rebecca bestellen. Sie ist die kleine Schwester von zwei meiner Freunde aus Deutschland, die in Addis Abeba geboren ist! Also Rebecca, viel Spaß beim lesen und Fotos schauen. Kannst mir gerne eine E-mail schreiben, Falls es etwas gibt, wovon du gerne Fotos sehen würdest. :-)


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24 September 2008

OKTOBERFEST

The world-famous German festival (originally a wedding ceremony...the beer focus came later) started in Munich last weekend. As it is every year, the same weekend saw a bunch of swing dancers descend on the city for the Munich Lindy Exchange. As much as I would have loved to be there, I just couldn't push my start date in Ethiopia back any further, so I had to be content with hearing about the party and seeing the photos afterwards.


And so I came to Ethiopia, resigned to the fact that I would miss out on Oktoberfest again this year. Then I walked into the Hilton hotel before the Hash on Saturday, and saw this...


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It's a booth to advertise the hotel's Oktoberfest celebration! They're even flying in a Bavarian band to play. I got really excited about it, until I read that they would be serving a local beer. :-( We'll see...I may have to check it out just to get my fix of "die Wies'n".


From the Hilton, I went running with the Hash again. Hashing in Addis looks a lot like hashing did in Kathmandu...


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Now, if only the Addis hashers were less afraid of running through mud. ;-)


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For more updates go here.

My name is Mark. I was born near Chicago, have lived in the US, Germany and Nepal, and am starting a new job and a new adventure in Ethiopia. This site is a way for me to keep friends and family updated on my progress, share some pictures, and perhaps offer a bit of reflection along the way. Please look around, and enjoy the ride!

Herumwandernder Cavetroll... heisse Mark. Ich habe in den USA, Deutschland und Nepal gewohnt, und jetzt geht es weiter nach Äthiopien. Mit diesem Website halte ich meine Familien- und Freundeskreise informiert über wie es mir in meinen Abenteuern geht. Schau mal 'rum, und viel Spass dabei!


-Mark, September 2008



Sites I'm reading:

- my flickr site
- My del.ico.us page
- Blog of a talk by Saul Griffith on his personal power footprint
- Does Energy Efficiency Save Energy?
- Old but hilarious Nike Ad... "borrowed" from the Ministry of Manipulation blog
- Jennifer's blog... about her adventure in Nepal
- Ministry of Manipulation... a site that my friend Drew is involved in - buy the book!
- The Designers Accord... designers going green and social
- The Copenhagen Consensus... a group of economists' take on what world problems should be tackled first
- New York Times Op-Ed piece... what's your Consumption Factor?
- Adele's blog
- Very cool ad
- Acumen Fellows blog
- Human Development Report... from the United Nations Development Programme

"All who wander are not lost." - J.R.R. Tolkien
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Mark Jeunnette